The PEN series camera started on the wrong foot one can say. First the E-P1 was launched with its unique kit lens and it did not take long for the photo community to realize the PEN was not the fastest focusing camera. The GF1 from Panasonic was launched at the same time and it had a great focussing “engine” build in giving it great speed and accuracy. That was good because the slow PEN focussing speed could easily have created the wrong impression of the then young mirror-less camera family.

Shortly after the E-P1, Olympus launched the E-P2 and it had a number of improvements, they were additions to the E-P1 function list plus the E-P2 had improved focussing speed. I owned both the E-P1 and the E-P2 and to me their was not much of a difference in focussing speeds. I realize that this has been an in-depth discussing ever since these cameras were first launched. That said I was always of the opinion that the actual focussing speed was not that slow. I confirmed that to myself when I later bought a GF1 from Olympus. What did happen was that the E-P1 or E-P2 would lock onto the subject and when one press the shutter all the way to take the image then it would not immediately react. There was thus a definite lag from the moment one give the command to take the image to the moment the shutter is released. This lag made it impossible to use these cameras with portrait photography.

When the E-PL2 was launched I bought one, thinking I will write about it on this site and then later sell it again. I quickly realized that the E-PL2 is different and that its image quality was what I were looking for. It had a few more aspects making it unique, its performance was closer to that of the real SLR, its added ART filters plus a few more aspects. In a next article I will talk more about the E-PL2 being closer to the real SLR performance.

How can one reduce the Shutter Lag on the E-PL2?

How does the improve focus speed compare?

Generally on the large forums people agree that the 14 - 45 mm Lumix is a excellent performer. It is really fast focussing plus its silent when focussing. Unfortunately I sold the E-P2 and can therefor not test it. What I did do was to try the E-PL2 using different lenses plus the GF1 using the same lenses. I then also tried the E620 to give me a type of reference to measure by. Using something like the original kit lens does appear to be slow, but using the 14 - 42 Lumix is a different story. To complete the test, I then keep on focusing and taking the pictures one after each other without stopping. One picture close and the next further away, then close again and then far away. The E-PL2 with a minimum RAW configuration reacted similar to the fast focussing GF1 to me. In many cases it appeared to be even quicker, especially with the 14 - 42 Lumix lens fitted to the E-PL2. The E620 is quicker and really gives a instantaneous experience. Much slower that the E620 was the E-PL2 also not!!

I hope this short article is of value to you. If you have any more questions please do not hesitate to contact me in the forum.

Best

Siegfried

This section was a little slow to take of and the reason is I just did not had a way of presenting the short articles. One does not want to write to much because then people does not read it, on the other hand its important to write because that is the best way of telling the story on a media like the web. I recently discovered a great example while working on different techniques and that I like to start using with this short technique I like to write about. Please give me feedback and let me know if this technique will work for you.

How to use the Curves Function to make images Pop....

First important thing to do after purchasing Photoshop Elements is to get the “Elements Plus” add-on for Elements. What is does it un-locks many more advanced functions in Elements only available in the much more expensive versions like CS4 and CS5. It is not expensive and worth every penny you pay.

Well, that is it, your first important Photoshop Elements technique. I do most of my work in RAW and yes I agree working in RAW is extremely powerful. But often with my PEN I use the excellent JPEG files I get from the PEN and in most cases the above technique is all I need to give it that extra little pop.

From here onwards you can sharpen if you need to or you can leave it as is. In my next technique I will give you some interesting sharpening advice.

Siegfried

I bought a number of different software packages over the years to edited images with. These image editing software packages differ from dedicated HDR to RAW converters and finally Photoshop. One thing really important I think is to stick with one software. Rather spend more time researching and when you decide to buy then stay with your choice. The reason is editing software takes time to get use to plus it takes time to really master any piece of image editing software.

I am not 100% fixed on wether a general image editor or graphical editing software package like Elements is better to have or if a more dedicated RAW software converter like Bibble, Aperture or Capture One is in fact better. Reason is one can get use to a RAW converter like Bibble fast and one can do almost everything necessary with it. Many years back I started with Photoshop Elements and today I understand the software really well and I am able to do almost anything I want with it.

If I had to choose a winner then hands down I would select Photoshop Elements again. I have started to work using channels in CS4 recently and I can imagine that the new techniques I am learning will eventually move me away from Elements. But for the time being I cannot think I will move away at all.

Siegfried

In this short article I want to show you a great focusing option or technique available with the E-PL2. I know the E-P1&2 well and have not seen the same function in those cameras. To my knowledge this function I am discuss in this article is only applicable to the E-PL2.

The E-PL2 has the option to reduce or enlarge the focus area in the image plus one can select to fill the LCD monitor of the camera with the focus area content. This should not be confused with the MF focus option one has on all the PEN cameras.

The E-PL2 has AF sensitivity build-in, similar to that of some E-Series SLR cameras from Olympus. AF sensitivity refers to the size of the AF sampling area. Typically Olympus SLR's offer a small or normal AF sensitivity area. On the E-PL2 you can produce a similar effect when composing shots on the Live View LCD monitor by adjusting the magnification ratio of the Zoom Frame AF function. When zoom frame AF is enabled, the square AF frame that would normally be displayed on the LCD to assist with focusing is replaced by a zoom frame. The zoom frame is smaller than the AF frame and has the aspect ratio of the LCD screen, not of the square AF frame. As the magnification factor increases, the zoom frame decreases in size. Only the data within the zoom frame is evaluated when the camera tries to acquire autofocus. Therefore, a smaller amount of image data will be evaluated by the camera when it tries to acquire autofocus.

This camera obtains autofocus by sampling a portion of the image data in the scene and searching within that area for the subject with the greatest contrast. This AF sampling area is indicated on the LCD screen by the AF frame (standard operation) or the zoom frame (when shooting using zoom frame AF).
The AF frame has fixed dimensions; however, the size of the zoom frame can be reduced by adjusting the magnification factor of the zoom frame AF function. As the magnification is increased, the size of the zoom frame decreases. Because the camera only considers the picture information within the zoom frame when it sets autofocus, the result is that the camera uses a smaller area of the scene to determine focus. This configuration makes the camera achieve autofocus with greater precision than when sampling using the AF frame.
To change the size of the AF sampling area, please do the following:

• Press the Zoom button once. The zoom frame is displayed on the LCD screen. Notice that the zoom frame has the aspect ratio of the LCD screen, not of the square AF frame. The first time this function is used, the zoom frame is configured to use a magnification factor of 7x.

• Press the INFO button once. The magnification factor will be displayed in the bottom left corner of the LCD screen.

• Press the Up button on the circular keypad once to select a 10x magnification factor, or press it twice to select 14x. As the magnification factor increases, the zoom frame shrinks. Once the zoom frame reaches the desired size, press the [OK] button to register the setting. The area within the zoom frame becomes the new AF sampling area. Only the image data within the zoom frame will be considered when the camera sets autofocus.

The next image shows what one of the above Zoom Frames would look like on the camera monitor when one press the Zoom Button. This is a really handy tool to help the user to accurately focus in the right place.

Where would one use this function. Focussing is one of thee most important aspects of photography. The complete look of an image is determined with how the focussing was done. With the Olympus PEN one can determine how the shutter button should operate. I set mine so that it only focus when pressed halfway and that it reads the exposure when the shutter is pressed all the way. I also like to use manual exposure. The first application is when accurate focussing is required. For example with portrait photography one like to focus on the eye of the model. The next application could be critical depth of field and the last application could be macro work.

I hope you find this short article helpful.

Siegfried

Every so often I visit a number of large camera forums to see what is happening and what people talk about. Time and again I am surprised at the replies people get when they inquire about the best settings for something like the E-PL2 or any other Olympus PEN camera. In one case one of the advisor's tried his best to convince the original poster that the GF2 from Panasonic is much better than the Olympus. Another advisor were talking about the "small" sensor the PEN camera's use and how noisy the images are one get from the PEN, he continued saying the PEN has a poor ability to create a bokeh and on and on the list went. I decided to write a short article on what settings I use on my E-PL2 and I hope it will help those readers interested or readers new to his or hers PEN camera to enjoy these cameras more.

The 12MP sensor build into the Olympus E-PL2 is one of the best to date. I read in a article it is the same sensor used in the Olympus E5, the E620 and the E-P2. I do not have much experience with the E5, I only tried it at one stage for a few hours. That was together with a dear friend of this website. I thus do not know the E5 in-depth. I do know the E620 well plus the E-P2 and from using these cameras on a regular basis I learned to trust them plus I know what they capable of.

People talk about the Olympus colors or colours as the guys in the UK say, and it is true, Olympus cameras currently have the best available JPG engines on the market. I have not come across any other camera brand that can deliver as good JPEG images, out the camera, as what Olympus manage to do. To make it even better their most recent cameras utilize virtually no moire filtering inside the camera resulting in even sharper and more detailed images. Tipa wrote saying the E5 deliver image quality only expected from much more expensive cameras when they awarded the Olympus E5 with the 2011, TIPA Award.

To get back to the outstanding JPEG engine Olympus use in their cameras, I think you will appreciate if I say, do not adjust the image parameters to much in these cameras. Chances are you will destroy the image quality and you will end up spending hours trying to correct them in Photoshop. If you really want to play with the settings then set the camera to record RAW and JPEG at the same time. Back in the comfort of your home you can adjust virtually every parameter available in the camera on your PC, using the Viewer 2 RAW software package, supplied by Olympus and it is free of charge. Please do not listen to people writing Viewer is not good, no other free RAW converter can offer you what Viewer can on Olympus RAW images.....

JPEG out the camera using the Diorama ART filter

What special settings could you consider on the E-PL2?

1. First do a factory reset (p33)

2. Then adjust the automatic ISO range to 200 - 3200 (p45,P81)

3. Next adjust the JPEG file quality to "LSF" (Large Super Fine) (p44,78)

4. Set the Picture Mode to iEnhance in A, S and P modes. (p42)

5. Then Select RAW plus JPEG (p44)

6. Select to delete RAW and JPEG at the same time (p83,84)

7. Save your "user" setting in the "My Set" memory (p33)

E-PL2 image with in-camera Art filter plus frame

At this point one could decide what image ratio is best for you. The PEN makes it possible to record images in 4:3, 3:2 and 16:9 format's, several more ratio's are available. It is also good to have a look at the different default functions Olympus assigned to the keys at the back of the camera. In standard form the Fn button will activate the so called Face recognition plus SAT functions. Not all photographers like SAT and it is not something I personally would have combined with face recognition as Olympus did. If you not comfortable with this setting you could change it to reflect your style or you can remove all functionality from the Fn button. Its possible to change the direction one would turn the zoom ring on the lens, one could adjust the functionality of the movie record button and many more. My advice is not to spend to much time on all these possible settings and to start using the E-PL2.

One more aspect to keep in mind is dynamic range and things like noise. Those who do not like Olympus like to remind Olympus owners that the PEN series for example has a poor dynamic range. Again that is not completely true and I can give much more information to prove that all modern digital cameras has a potential poor dynamic range when compared to a real life situation. The "art" is to make it work for you. Only few people develop the ability to make modern digital cameras enhance their artistic abilities. To master this aspect of modern digital photography you will have to be selective with whom you talk and what forums you read.

On a later stage I will write more articles that will look at the more advanced functions the E-PL 2 offer the user. You are welcome to post comments or questions in the forum area and I am happy to answer your questions.

Siegfried